[Gear Pro]

Hey fellow ice aficionados! As someone who enjoys the thrill of waterfall climbing (and the unavoidable bone-chilling excitement that comes with it), I’ve amassed a little wisdom about the tools of the trade—specifically ice screws. Seriously, they’re like the dental floss of climbing gear: you don’t think about them until you really need them, and then you’re glad you had the good stuff!

In this post, I’ll be sharing my thoughts on three of my favorite ice screws that have kept me safe and secure as I hang off some seriously frozen waterfalls. After that, I’ll throw in a handy buyer’s guide to help you pick out the cream of the crop for your next icy adventure. So, let’s dive in!

• Petzl Laser Speed Light
• Black Diamond Express Ice Screw
• Grivel Helix

[Gear Pro]

Petzl Laser Speed Light

So, I finally got my hands on the Petzl Laser Speed Light ice screws, and let me tell you, it’s like having the cheat code for your winter escapades. You know that feeling when you butter your toast just right? That’s pretty much how it feels placing these screws into ice, except you’re not just readying breakfast, you’re securing your ascent to ice-capped glory.

First off, these are some of the lightest screws I’ve ever lugged around—and trust me, my gear closet is starting to look like a hardware store with a mountain obsession. If you’re a gram-counter, the Petzl Laser Speed Light will make you so giddy you might even start counting your lucky stars alongside the grams.

• Weight: The aluminum construction with steel tips might sound like a culinary disaster, but in the climbing world, it’s the recipe for success. Honestly, it feels like they defy gravity just by existing.
• Performance: Picture this: Me, hanging on the side of an ice wall, grinning like I just discovered a stash of Swiss chocolates, all because these screws bite into ice with the enthusiasm of a puppy greeting its human. And the integrated crank, oh boy! It makes placement faster than my dog chasing after a squirrel.
• Reliability: Durability can be a concern with lightweight gear, but so far, these have shrugged off my haphazard handling and overzealous adventure stunts without a scratch. Well, maybe I’m exaggerating a bit, but hey, no news is good news, right?

If you’re like me and sometimes fumble around like you’ve got two left feet, the color-coding is an absolute godsend—especially when you’re fumbling in gloves, trying to match your screws to the ice like some extreme version of “match the socks” game.

Does it have any downsides? Well, if you’re the type who enjoys bench pressing your pack just for fun, maybe you’ll miss the extra weight. But for anyone looking to make their uphill battle a little less, well, uphill, these are the screws to bet on.

Pro tip: If you get a chance to demo these first, do it. They might just become your new best friend in the icy wilderness. As for me, I’m just considering asking them to be the best man at my wedding. That’s normal, right?

[Gear Pro]

Black Diamond Express Ice Screw

So there I was, halfway up an icy monster of a mountain, thinking about how much life insurance I might need for my poor ice axe as it clung desperately to the slick surface. Enter the Black Diamond Express Ice Screw, my new best friend and unexpected therapist. Seriously, I’m considering sending it a thank you card.

First things first, this little beastie knows how to bite. I’ve used a fair few ice screws in my time, but the Express Ice Screw might just have the easiest start I’ve ever experienced. When you’re dangling from a harness like a human Popsicle, you start to appreciate those kinds of details. With just a few confident cranks, this screw bites in deep — like a dog with your last slice of pizza.

• Speed: The integrated crank knob makes for a quick and easy placement. I once had an *ahem* rival screw that made me feel like I’d aged two decades just trying to get it set. With the Express, it’s more like, “Screw… Wham… Boom… In!” Done and dusted.
• Durability: The tubular steel design laughs at the prospects of bending. I imagine that if it had feelings, it would enjoy being stuck in glacier ice.
• Weight: Surprisingly light for the kind of work it does. It’s the fine balance between not making me feel like a pack mule and still getting the job done.
• Visual Appeal: Yes, I know, this is an ice screw, not a fashion statement, but I can still appreciate the sleek design. It looks sharper than my jokes, and that’s saying something.

Pro Tip: Make sure to give it a quick rinse after the adventure. I once left an ice screw, not this one of course, to fend for itself at the bottom of my backpack… I’m pretty sure it’s plotting revenge.

Finding gear that hits that sweet spot between functionality, durability, and a touch of style is like finding hidden powder stashes in the middle of a snowstorm. If you’re in the market for an ice screw that promises easy handling and solid gripping power, the Black Diamond Express should definitely be on your checklist. As for my ice axe, I’m just glad it gets to sleep soundly at night, knowing there’s quality protection on the lead. Now, if only I could find some gear that didn’t complain about the cold…

[Gear Pro]

Grivel Helix

So, I recently got my hands (or should I say feet?) on the Grivel Helix crampons, and let me tell you, it felt like strapping small tanks onto my boots. If winter had a party where ice was the cranky bouncer at the door, these crampons would be my VIP pass.

First Impressions: Right out of the box, I was impressed with the build quality. The Helix isn’t just a pretty face; it’s the Leonardo DiCaprio of crampons—often out in challenging conditions but never failing to deliver. The semi-rigid design lets you feel like you’re wearing something robust without turning into RoboCop.

Performance: I took them on a little icy adventure that seemed perfect for testing their mettle. The ten-point configuration is deceivingly minimalistic but incredibly effective. Halfway up my icy hill climb, I realized I was essentially Spider-Man, minus the web-swinging and spandex suit (you’re welcome for that mental image). No slipping, no unnecessary anxiety—just pure, unadulterated grip.

• Comfort: Comfort and crampons usually don’t belong in the same sentence, kind of like “diet” and “donut,” but here we are. Grivel somehow managed to make them lightweight without sacrificing strength—Kudos, Grivel, kudos.
• Durability: My companions were wearing different brands, and let’s just say I was the envy of the icy trail. While their crampons needed some tender loving care by the end of our trek, the Helix seemed to laugh in the face of scratches and scuffs.
• Fit: Adjusting them was a breeze. Even my caveman-esque approach to instructions didn’t result in any frustrating tangles.

Honestly, using the Grivel Helix felt like hiring a grumpy but reliable guide who hates jokes but loves seeing you succeed. If you’re venturing into snowy terrains anytime soon and need a pair of dependable crampons, these are a solid (pun intended) choice in your winter gear arsenal.

Disclaimer: These crampons, unfortunately, do not come with a built-in espresso machine for those extra cold mornings, nor do they prevent faceplants from grace. Use responsibly!

[Gear Pro]

Best Ice Screws for Waterfall Climbing Buyer’s Guide

So, you’ve decided to take the plunge into the world of waterfall climbing, huh? Well, you’ve come to the right place. Ice screws are your best friends on this slick, frozen adventure. Trust me, without them, you’d be in for a very slippery ride down a frozen cascade. Let’s dive into the icy abyss of selecting the best ice screws, shall we?

1. Know Your Threads: Ice screws come with either aggressive or normal threads. Aggressive threads provide better grip in varying ice conditions, which is fantastic when you’re tackling different types of ice. However, they can sometimes be a bit more challenging to install. Normal threads are typically less bitey but easier to place in the ice. Personally, I have a mix in my climbing pack; it’s like choosing between skis and a snowboard – both have their merits, ya know?

2. Length Matters: No snickering, please. You’ll generally find screws ranging from 10 to 22 cm. Longer screws (18-22 cm) are great for sketchier, hollow ice, while shorter ones (10-13 cm) are best for denser stuff. Pro tip: always carry a variety so you can adapt to whatever icy mood Mother Nature throws at you.

• 10-13 cm: Ideal for dense or solid ice.
• 16-19 cm: A well-rounded choice for most conditions.
• 21-22 cm: Your go-to for thick, but unreliable ice.

3. Handle With Care: When it comes to handles, some screws have high-leverage crank knobs for fast placement, which is a real arm-saver—trust me, I’ve been there with frozen fingers fumbling with old-style screws, and it’s not fun. Look for screws with a built-in handle or one with a foldable lever that won’t get caught in your gear.

4. Weight Savings: Now, I’m no ultra-light mountaineer, but I do appreciate a lighter load. Stainless steel screws are a bit heavier but more durable in the long run. On the flip side, aluminum screws with a steel tip give you a break in weight but might wear out faster. Choose according to your ice escapades — be it a quick jaunt or a full-on frozen expedition.

5. Brand Boondoggle: There are a few brands out there that climbers swear by, and for good reason. Brands like Black Diamond, Petzl, and Grivel have been trusted by climbers worldwide. They offer reliability, durability, and a real sense of “I got your back” when you’re hundreds of feet up a frosty face.

6. Keep ‘Em Sharp: Don’t get lazy with maintenance. A dull screw is like trying to cut roast beef with a butter knife. Keep those tips sharp, and they’ll keep you safe. Honestly, the feeling when a screw bites into ice just right… it’s like finding that perfect parking spot in a sea of snow-covered cars.

“Placement is everything. A wise climber once said, ‘When in doubt, screw it out!’ Always check your placements and back them up when the ice feels sketchy.”

In conclusion, pick your screws wisely, because out there, they’re the only thing between you and an unplanned meeting with the ground. Now, get out there and let those waterfalls know who’s boss! Happy climbing and stay frosty!

[Gear Scout]

You know, talking about ice screws is making me shiver with excitement (or maybe it’s just my brain on ice mode). I’ve gotta say, choosing the right ice screw is like picking a sidekick for your icy escapades – they might just save your bacon (a frozen one at that)! 🥶

Here’s something to consider that I didn’t see mentioned:

• Function Meets Art: Did you know that some ice screws are designed with a color-coded system? It’s like rainbow sprinkles for your gear! Helps you identify the length at a glance, so you can become the Picasso of the ice wall while keeping things super efficient.
• The Sweet Sound of Efficiency: If you can, test some screws out and listen for the symphony they make. Fast-screwing ones often create a nice zippy sound—like the ice gods purring in approval!
• Grit and Grip: Always remember the tip (no pun intended)! The sharper and more aggressive the bite at the tip, the better the screw will anchor. Think of it as finding love at first sight—when it clicks, it’s a match made on the ice! 💘

So, happy climbing, ice lovers! May your tools be sharp, your heart bold, and your waterfalls majestic! 🌨️

[Hammock Hiker]

Alright, icy adventurers, gather ’round! 🧊 Since we’re in full-on ice screw appreciation mode, let me throw in my two cents. Picking the right screw can be as puzzling as trying to drink a hot chocolate through a straw while climbing—tricky but oh-so-worth-it!

• Weighty Matters: Consider the weight of the screw. Some of them might feel as heavy as a polar bear on your gear loop. Lightweight options can feel like carrying a marshmallow instead—ideal when you’re counting every ounce while dangling precariously.
• The Spin Factor: Speaking of dangling, have you tried dual-axle handling? Some screws spin so smoothly they should have their own TikTok dance moves. 🕺 It’s like waltzing on the ice wall—amazing and oddly satisfying.
• Catch the Draft: Draft tubes are a game-changer, folks. They prevent your screws from blowing out and help them sit snug, providing a level of comfort you never knew you needed while on the climb.

Remember, every climb is an adventure, and every ice screw is your steadfast buddy. 🤝 So suit up, screw in, and let’s conquer those crystalline beasts together! 🏔️

[Campfire Ranger]

Hey ice warriors, brave souls of the frozen realms! ❄️️ Ever feel like choosing ice screws is akin to picking the perfect karaoke song? It’s a delicate balance between performance and style, with just a touch of “please don’t let me mess this up!” 😂

• The Length Conundrum: Always choose a variety of lengths to match the ice’s fickle personality. It’s like having a wardrobe for your screws—one size doesn’t fit all! Longer screws typically offer better protection, but remember, Goldilocks, not too long or the ice might crack!
• Handle with Fun: Opt for screws with ergonomic handles that feel like they belong in a premium car—smooth and satisfying. This allows for quicker placements and adjustments. Because, let’s be real, who wants cramped hands halfway up a waterfall?
• Price Tag Tale: Don’t skimp, but don’t break the bank either. Think of your ice screws as an investment in your snow-capped opera! Balancing quality and cost means more ice climbing adventures to come.
• Ease of Racking: Look for those that rack like a dream, seamlessly clipping and unclipping. It might sound like a minor detail, but when speed is crucial, it’s the difference between feeling like a pro-speed climber and a bumbling holiday shopper. 🚀

So get out there, feel the ice in your bones, and let your screws sing! 🎶 Stay frosty, friends!

[Patagonia Peaks]

Hey there, slippery slope enthusiasts! 😄 Let’s dive into some more icy insights. You know, picking the perfect ice screw is like finding the right coffee blend for a frozen morning—it can really perk up your climb!

• Know Your Conditions: Different screws perform better in specific ice conditions. Think of it as choosing the right footwear for a dance floor. Hard, brittle ice might need a beefier screw, while softer stuff might be more forgiving.
• Mind the Threads: Check out the thread design. Some have finer threads that grip icy surfaces like a velcro, and others are more spaced out for deeper bites. It’s like picking between gentle hugs and bear hugs for your ice. 🐻🤗
• Twist and Shout: Ever put on a screw and hear that satisfying little “crunch”? Some handles are designed to be twisted with ease—like popping a bottle of your favorite fizzy drink! 🎉 Finding the screw that turns smoothly can save you energy for the fun parts.
• Show Your Colors: Oh, and if you’re into a bit of color coordination, why not match your screws to your gear? Practical and fabulous! Who knew ice screws could be a fashion statement? 💅

So get those screws turning, conquer that ice, and remember to enjoy every chilly heartbeat along the way!🍧 Keep it cool, ice warriors! 🏔️😎

[Author]

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